If a younger bearded dragon does need more iron, the options include feeding greens high in iron, getting an iron supplement from a herp vet or feeding a commercial food that contains iron. Phosphorous helps with bone development.
See a Problem?
Fruits and vegetables are naturally high in phosphorous, so most bearded dragons will receive plenty of phosphorous from their diet. Too much phosphorous can prevent beardies from digesting calcium properly.
The ideal level is 1. Generally, the best approach would be to find a diet that your bearded dragon likes and stay with that diet. As mentioned previously, there are many insects and plants that you should avoid feeding your bearded dragon.
While some of these items are simply unhealthy, others are poisonous and can be lethal if ingested. Never feed your bearded dragon any insect that glows. This includes fireflies, lightning bugs or any worms that can glow in the dark. Non-poisonous foods that you should avoid feeding, because of their unhealthiness, include lettuce and spinach. Spinach is healthy; however, it causes calcium to bind to it during the digestion process, which makes it more difficult for your bearded dragon to digest.
Raising Live Foods on Apple Books
Steven Holdaway lives in Chattanooga, Tenn. You are currently logged in as. Related Articles. Earliest Reptile Footprints The earliest evidence for the existence of reptiles has been found in Canada. How Tadpoles Optimize Their Buoyancy Tadpoles are well-equipped to adjust their buoyancy in the water.
Care & Raising Tips-FAQ
Besides, would you purchase rodents knowing they contained tape worms eggs and then feed them to your snakes under any circumstances?
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Taking the extra time to make sure you are purchasing rodents produced professionally, in a clean environment, and from disease free stock is the best way to prevent parasite transmission. Earlier in this article, we touched on loss of vitamins, minerals and nutrients during the freezing process. But we did not mention that the length of time spent in the freezer can increase these losses, not to mention cause freezer burn. It is recommended that you obtain the freshest frozen rodents possible.
A Nearly Perfect Reptile and Amphibian Food: Rearing and Using Earthworms
Making the assumption that your store has provided fresh ones can be a mistake, they may have been in the back of their freezer for months or worse. Many commercial sources for frozen rodents will date each package with the date frozen, a real help in determining freshness. Now let's talk about problems with the method of feeding frozen. Each year we get several inquiries from keepers who have failed to do this and are having serious medical problems with their pets as a result.
We always hold the rodent in the hand, feeling the thickest parts especially the head for any cool temperatures which might indicate that it is not completely thawed before feeding. But remember, over-thawing can be a whole lot worse! Read the label on a package of chicken. See where it discusses the dangers of exposing it to room temperatures? Well, this is exactly what you MUST do before feeding a frozen rodent! And this rodent is complete, with all gut content and bacteria, not to mention urine and feces, while the chicken has been stripped of all such nasties.
So here we are, deliberately exposing a tainted piece of meat to dangerous temperatures before happily handing it to our pet.
Culturing Live Foods
Sound bad? Well it is. Salmonella and other nasty organisms can develop amazingly fast, and the real danger here is hidden. You happily feed without knowing and suddenly your snake has slimy green feces and is losing weight faster than an anorexic fashion model. Oh, and remember when you had to touch it to see if it was thawed? Like it says on that chicken package, always wash hands and surfaces thoroughly with disinfectant including feeding tongs or similar after use.
Attempt to minimize the exposure to room temperatures. He is the top ranked breeder of all time in the Missouri Aquarium Society, Inc. He credits his success to large regular water changes, keeping live plants in every tank and culturing and feeding an assortment of live foods daily for feeding his breeding stock and for growing the fry of these diverse fish. Mike has given nearly talks to classes, clubs, groups and conventions all over the USA and Canada, has documented many of these keeping and spawning successes in more than articles published in hobby publications around the world, and has had two books on live foods published by TFH Publications.